A friend asked me recently
what a sagra is. Now, I know what
it is to me and I’m pretty sure that this varies greatly from what it is to an
Italian, but here goes....
To me, a sagra is kind of
like a New York street fair. But
different. Like a street fair, it takes place in a neighborhood, but in Italy,
this neighborhood is sometimes an entire town and there are usually some interesting things to see that you might not otherwise, be it ancient graffiti on a church wall, a natural thermal pool, or locals doing line dances.
It is often organized by the
town’s Pro Loco, which as far as I can tell is a group of people who live in
the town and try to make it better for its residents, who organize events to
try to raise money. Towards that end, they organize things to get folks to come
spend money in the town, a population which is increasingly often non-townfolk. A good way
to do this is to gather a bunch of vendors to sell stuff to the folks who come
to check out a particular food the area is known for.
Some sagre feature an ingredient like polenta, porcini
mushrooms, truffles, mussels (cozze), wild boar (chingiale), a
specific pasta. You get the idea. Typically, the people of the town will cook
various plates, typical of their area, using the featured ingredient and sell
them from stalls. Sometimes, they’ll hire professionals to do it.
The idea is always the same.
Go to a town, eat a bunch of food, drink some wine or beer and listen to the
(often) live music provided.
Most sagre have one area where you look at the list of food
available, make your selection, hand over your euros and get a ticket or
tickets. You then stand in line in another area, hand over your tickets and get
your plates of food.
These events take place
yearly, around the same time each year. For instance, the Sagra della Porchetta
Italica of Campli in Abruzzo is always around the 2nd or 3rd
week end in August. Some sagre are tied to religious events and these are
governed by that calendar.
Some of them have live
bands, some DJs, some folk music with dancers. Some, all three. There might be carnival rides and
cotton candy.
There are also Feste. These are much like sagre. Sometimes, exactly the same, but sometimes, there
is a theme versus an ingredient.
Roasting chestnuts, Acquasanta Terme (AP) |
In Acquasanta Terme in the
province of Ascoli Piceno, there is the Festa d’Autunno. This is typically held the third weekend in
October. There are vendors roasting chestnuts and selling vino caldo. Other folks sell sausage sandwiches and fried pizza
dough (known, variously, as fritelle, crispelle and I’m sure several other
names). Street performers roam around, market vendors sell everything from
truffles to skeins of wool. The local group of Alpini, retirees from the army’s mountain division, open
their lodge as a restaurant. The restaurants in town offer special menus
featuring fall recipes of tagliatelle with chestnuts, roast pork with apples,
etc.
Win a prosciutto. Castignano |
Castignano, also in Ascoli,
is a walled medieval town that capitalizes on its connection to the Knights Templar
with their yearly Templaria Festival in the middle of August. Legend has it
that some Knights lived there and each year, the town is transformed into a
medieval village, with minstrels and Templars roaming about, market areas with
vendors selling handmade leather goods, wooden items, jewelry and more. There
are stages throughout the town featuring jesters and dancers. Churches and
museums are open, showcasing various items from times gone by. Palm and tarot
card readers tell the future. Themed restaurants open, showcasing soups and
stews of rabbit, deer and wild boar. While you’re eating, performers might come
by talking of their poverty and the wife might complain of the scrawniness of
her husband and her daughter could take a look at your husband, commenting on
the size of his belly at which point the wife might ask if she can take your
husband home, promising him to return him shortly. You might consider it.
Some of these events, like
the porchetta sagra/contest in Campli and the autumn fest in Acquasanta have
been happening annually for more than forty years. Others are in their second
or third edition.
The strangest thing to me
about these sagre and feste is how hard it can be to find information. As you
drive around, you’ll signs posted announcing a sagra. Usually, the town, the
dates and the theme or food is announced. Sometimes, the name of the sagra
gives no clue to the non-local about what food’s being served or the signs
featuring the local dialect mean nothing to you. This can be a drag if you’ve,
say, driven an hour to find that the annual fried frog sagra in Atri has been
canceled this year and as you’re driving home, you’re passing sagra after sagra
but don’t know if it’s worth it to you to stop. The signs rarely say
specifically where in the town the sagra is or the starting time. Internet
information is often just as limited. I guess it has to do with these parties
originally being for the locals and the locals all just know, inherently, the
details just as they know that you can pay your water bill at the newsagent or
where it is you go to buy cheesecloth (for the record, I think it might be the
hardware shop). Thankfully, this is starting to change, but I think I’ve
cracked the code.
In summer, most sagre start at around 7pm. As the sun starts to set, it’s
actually cool enough to contemplate eating food. As this is also the time that
your house, which was almost cool during the day is starting to heat up, it’s
the perfect time to go for a drive or take a walk into town, get a drink, find
something to eat and be entertained.
Many feste towards the end of August and into fall, may start
in the morning or early afternoon, especially on Saturdays and Sundays. The
Festa d’Autunno and the Sagra delle Patate in Leonessa do this. Sometimes,
they’ll say they start at noon or at 3p but if you’re thinking of going the
first day, you might not want to believe them. They may still be setting up at
5p. Like many things in italy, it depends. Like most things in Italy, on what,
I don’t know. But if you’re driving around and see a sign for a sagra, you should probably stop to check it out.
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